• Real Blinds Australia

How To Install Window Blinds Perfectly - The Complete Guide

Updated: Apr 27


How To Install Roller Blinds: The Ultimate Guide
How To Install Roller Blinds · The Ultimate Guide


Need to install custom roller blinds perfectly every time?


This is the first complete guide into roller blind installation giving you all the information you need in nearly any scenario to complete your installation. Once completed your blind will be securely attached to the correct location, balanced, and looking beautiful.



This guide goes into the details of the installation of roller blinds only and not the customisation or manufacturing of roller blinds. Also, this is for internal roller blinds only, with no outdoor blinds, pelmet, or cassette installation. If you need help measuring for blinds we have you covered.



In most cases installing a roller blind is considered an easy process. However, if you read on you will find out some installations can be a bit challenging. So, some installations are not recommended for a DIYer, therefore, use common sense and hire a professional.



I will also provide you with many trade secrets and the best practices to getting the blinds nice and balanced in 5 steps. In step 4 I’ll list out 21 different installation scenarios which should provide you a solution for what you are looking to achieve.

I have kept this guide as basic for you to understand as possible. However, if you think this is a bit complicated or would like a professional job completed, you can call me, and I will personally be able to sort your custom Sydney blinds. I also have colleagues as skilled as myself that can install your custom Melbourne blinds too.



Here is how I grade each installation scenario:


Easy Way Of Blind Installation Badge

Easy – If you have held a tool before, you can do this.



Medium Blind Installation Badge

Medium – A bit tricky, but if you have a bit of DIY know how this can be done.


Hard Blind Installation Badge

Hard – Not recommended you attempt this as it may be very time-consuming, complicated, or simply just dangerous. You should hire a professional.

Hard Blind Installation Badge

Expert – Blind installers with a few years of blind installing experience will be needed to complete this task.


What you will need


You will need the correct blind at the window, the brackets (with or without cover plates), the mechanisms, the chain (with or without the chain joiner or ball stoppers), the child safety latch, a step ladder, a tape measure, a drill (standard driver bit) or screwdriver (Philips), screws (decent quality), a flat head screwdriver, pencil, electrical tape, and other various hand tools which may be required.


Complete Step To Install The Brackets For Your Roller Blind
How Are Roller Blinds Made? The Parts That Make A Roller Blind | Real Blinds
Tools For Installation Roller Blinds | Real Blinds
Tools For Installation Roller Blinds | Real Blinds

For masonry, you will additionally need a hammer drill with a masonry drill bit 5.5mm or 6mm, 6mm wall plugs, a hammer, and a dustpan or handheld vacuum. Note some packaged blinds come with the 5.5mm plugs, which is why it’s good to have both sizes of drill bits.


Tools For Installation Roller Blinds | Real Blinds
Tools For Installation Roller Blinds | Real Blinds

For plasterboard or gyprock, you will additionally need gyprock plugs and possibly spring toggles (Drywall anchors).


For a complicated installation, you may require a large assortment of tools and parts, including scissors, a Stanley knife, a hacksaw (fine-toothed for aluminum), a rubber, crack filler, white-out, black texture, various sizes of flathead, and Philips screwdriver, Allen keys, Spirit level, chisel, cold chisel, tin snips, bottlenose pliers and monkey grips there are more but this lists a majority of tools you may require.

So let’s get your roller blinds installed

STEP #1 How to set your blind up before installation


Get your custom blind set up for the correct configuration. Is it a conventional roll or backward roll?

Roller Blind Front Roll Or Backwards Roll | Real Blinds

Pre-set the chain joiner (note some chains are unending (loop chains) so no need to do this then).

Roller Blind Front Roll Or Backwards Roll | Real Blinds

Push the chain mechanism into the blind, then on the other side the idler mechanism.

Roller Blind Front Roll Or Backwards Roll | Real Blinds

You’re set for the installation now.


Pro tip 1 – Surface prep is sometimes a great idea to go the extra mile. To do this:

1. Remove any existing blind and existing blind parts.

2. Wipe down any dirt, mould, or dust.

3. Add a small amount of crack filler to any existing holes which are now redundant. If you added filler to black or dark-coloured aluminum, touch the filler up with a black permanent marker after the filler has had a bit of time to dry.



STEP #2 How to install the brackets for your roller blind


Make sure you have the chain side bracket and idler side bracket on the correct side to match the way the blind has been configured.



Hold the bracket in the desired position and mark a dot with a pencil. For internal mounts have the bracket against the side and dot the part of the bracket channel that allows you the maximum amount of adjustment if you have to bring the bracket in.


Easy Way To Desired Position With Mark A Dot With A Pencil

For external mount, you can put a dot in the center of the bracket giving you the option to move the bracket slightly inwards or outwards.



Once you have dotted your screw holes, you drill these out and add any fittings if required.


Once your holes are ready, using quality screw fittings, screw the brackets into position.


Know About Quality Screw Fittings


Pro tip 2 – The reason for using high-quality fittings is if in the future you wish to remove the blind or change the blind this will eliminate the risk of a potential headache. Cheap screws are at risk of burring out or have their head stripped, which means a Philips head or flat head screwdriver won’t be able to get the screws out. There are solutions to get these out, which involve demolishing the stripped screw with a metal screw, or to knock the head off the stripped screw with a cold chisel and a hammer, or twisting the stripped screw out with pliers, or finally using force to yank the stripped screw out with pliers.



STEP #3 How to hang your blind up onto the bracketing (complete once brackets are installed)


Set your ladder up in the correct position which is usually 3 quarters along towards the idler side of the blind. This will allow you to lift the blind from near the center.


Complete Steps To Hang Your Blind Up Onto The Bracketing

Once you are holding the blind up slide in the chain side mechanism, this will usually push in then lock downwards. Once this is in using a flat head push in the spring-loaded idler mechanism or wind the idler mechanism, so the pin retracts then slide this into the bracket, allowing the pin to push into the hole locking the blind off.


Steps Of Idler Types

Once you have clicked the blind into the brackets, wait 5 seconds and be ready to catch the blind. You may think a blind is secure, but it’s still possible it’s not this is about how long it would take if it were to fall off.


Go over to the chain side and check that it has been locked in the correct way, and the blind and the bracket is straight. To see step 5 below if you need help balancing the blind and what to do to test the blind.




STEP #4 Choose your scenario for the type of installation


Easy Steps Scenario Installation

Scenario #1: Blind installation into a timber frame


Scenario 1 To Blind Installation Into A Timber Frame

Starting with the easiest and most common installation type, usually, the blinds would be installed inside the frame. To do this, line the brackets up the top and bring the bracketing in 1cm from the room side of the frame. If the frame is narrow 1cm from the window side.


Steps Of Installation Room Side Frame

To reduce the risk of timber splitting, you can predrill these holes if you like. Screw your two screws into each of the brackets.


Steps Of Drilling Out Timber

Other common installation types are onto the architraves or external mount. For these it’s a similar process, just see these photos of where to attach screws. External brackets will likely require cover plates.


Steps Of How To Cover Plates


Pro tip 3 - Cover plates can be used to space internally installed blind brackets inwards filling the void if the blind is a slightly smaller fit. In some instances, on architrave installations. some of the timber might prevent the cover plate from sliding on properly. A solution to this is to cut short the cover plate, reattached, and make sure it holds with some super glue to the bracket or clear liquid nails.


Pro tip 4 – Older or cheaper timber is prone to cracking. To avoid this predrill the hole with a smaller drill piece or pre-drill the hole with a Tek head screw. If you drill and the timber cracks you can add crack filler to the crack and touch this up with white paint or white-out.


Scenario #2: Blind installation into brickwork, masonry, or concrete

Scenario 2 To Blind Installation Into Brickwork

Once your holes are marked, get your hammer drill and make sure it's set onto the hammer setting. Pre tap a screw or nail onto the holes you have drawn to make sure your hammer drill does not slip around. This will make sure you get your hole accurately on the mark.


Step Of How Tap Screw With Hammer


Don’t use excessive force and let the hammer drill do the work for you. Drill a hole that is about 25-40mm deep. You should catch the dust with a vacuum or dustpan.



Using your hammer, tap in your wall plugs. The most common size for internal roller blinds is the red wall plug 6mm, which is used with a 6mm drill bit. Some blinds supply wall plugs, and these wall plugs can be less than 6mm this is when a 5.5mm drill bit is better used.


Step Of How To Tap Wall Plugs With Hammer

Once the wall plugs are tapped in, wipe down the area to get rid of excess dust with a cloth, damp toilet paper, or a wet wipe. Once both holes have been drilled and plugged using the appropriate screws, screw in the bracketing.


If you drill up vertically for the first hole and find metal lintel or structural metal, you should seek the alternative of drilling the brackets through the sides as it’s not worth pursuing the installation into the metal lintel.


If for some reason this is not an option, you should look at installing blinds onto the aluminum frame. Otherwise, we got you covered in scenario #21.


Pro tip 5 – Opening a window can be beneficial or a bad idea. If the pressure of the room is blowing outwards this will take the dust with it. Make sure the outside of the window is somewhere for the dust to scatter, like a bush or driveway.




Scenario #3: Blind installation into plasterboard, drywall, or gyprock

Easy Ways Of Blind Installation Into Plasterboard, Drywall, Or Gyprock

Once your holes are marked, first try using a long screw at about 50mm or longer and drill this into the marked area. If you contact a timber stud, aluminum, or anything solid that this screw digs into this will be enough to support the blind on the gyprock.


Step 1 How To Select Screw Of Blind Installation Into Plasterboard

If your long screw makes no contact with anything, unscrew and take this out.


Now I want you to take your regular drill driver bit and drill it through the hole to widen the hole size to the size of your driver bit.


Step 2 Drilling Process Of Blind Installation Into Plasterboard

Once you have widened the hole it’s time to screw in the gyprock plug. Once this has been screwed in screw the brackets onto these.


Step 3 Screw In The Gyprock Plugs

Pro tip 6: Make sure you give a tug on the bracket one installed to make sure it's secure. If the gyprock is weak or crumbled too much your next alternative is spring toggles. To use these, you would have to widen the hole with your drill bit until you can squeeze the spring toggle through the hole. Once you insert the spring toggle and it expands then you tighten off the bolt which will cause the spring to fasten to the back of the gyprock. Other solutions are using combinations of gyprock plugs and spring toggles in one. At this stage, I would recommend injecting the hole with liquid nails as well.





Scenario #4: Blind installation into aluminum


Scenario 4 - Blind Installation Into Aluminum

Once you have marked where your bracket is to be installed, using Tek head screws drill through the aluminum. In most cases, this should work hassle-free. In some cases, with thicker aluminum, this may require predrilling the screw hole.


Keep in mind aluminum can usually be layered, which drilling might make a clean hole through the first layer and push the inner layer out of alignment. To avoid this run the screw in and out from the hole a few times.


In rare cases in which aluminum is too thick, or has something behind it, or is not aluminum you are best to look at other installation solutions.





Scenario #5: Blind installation onto a wall, not a frame


Scenario 5 - Blind Installation Onto A Wall, Not A Frame

If you can hold the blind up over the area, it's to be installed into. By doing this you will gauge the overhang of the material and base rail on both sides. Try and use the top of the window frame or the cornice as a guide.


The image is an example of 5cm, although this may be flush or anything in-between.


Steps 1: The Window Frame Or The Cornice Guide

Hold the blind over the area using a pencil mark roughly where the chain side bracket should sit. Once you mark this line, hold the bracket up here and dot the bracket. Drill and install this chain side bracket only, which would likely be a brick install (scenario 2) or gyprock install (scenario 3).


Steps 2: Move Ladder Of The Roller Blind

Once this is complete, move the ladder to the other side of the roller blind and hold the blind up and hook it into the bracket to gauge the positioning of the roller blinds.


Steps 3: Idler Bracket Should Sit With Your Pencil

If you need to move the blinds over, you can make small adjustments to the chain side bracket. If you need to move the bracket over a lot, like more than 1cm, you need to drill 2 new holes to reinstall the bracket further over.


Once this is in position, mark where your idler bracket should sit with your pencil.

Hold your bracket up to this marking and dot the two holes and repeat the installation.




Scenario #6 Blind installation into a sliding door or bi-fold door area


Scenario #6 Blind Installation Into A Sliding Door Or Bi-Fold Door Area


This is usually an installation into aluminum. Mounting the brackets horizontal is common in these scenarios. Make sure the sliding door framework is stable and not loose when you install this. Make sure you are drilling far enough away from the glass to avoid any cracking. Make sure if you drill above where the sliding door inserts into the upper tracking that the sliding door can glide freely and is not brushing up against any screws. If the horizontal installation is not working out, revert to a vertical bracket installation.


Steps 1: Blind Installation Process Into A Sliding Door

It is common with sliding door installations that the mullion will interfere with the blind. The first solution is to try and mount the blind out further than the mullion. Otherwise using a hacksaw and tape you can cut the mullion. Measure the area where the blind would sit and take a marking 1cm lower than the bottom of the blind giving yourself plenty of space. Draw a horizontal line at the back. Start by carefully cutting out the horizontal line to get you a starting point, which to do this saw one side, then the other side, and then the middle. Once you have made an indentation holding the hacksaw at the right angle carefully cut through at the angle all the way until the piece of mullion has been removed with a perfect diagonal cut.


Steps 2: Blind Installation Accessories Into A Sliding Door
Steps 3: Blind Installation Finishing Into A Sliding Door
Steps 4: Door Scratching The Blind Installation Process Into A Sliding Door

Once this has been removed correctly carefully test the door with the blind installed and make sure there is no risk of the door scratching the blind. If when testing it touches the blind, carefully close the door, remove the blind and cut the mullion again, this time further down and decrease the angle as well to take more the mullion at the backoff.


Pro tip 7: If you made some holes in a sliding door and need to patch t